Clay Soil help needed?

Question

I have moved into a new development and the back garden is just a muddy mess. It is clay soil, so doesn't drain well, has lumps and bumps all over it and is really sticky and heavy. It also slopes from left to right and from back to front. I;m not bothered about the uphill slope running away from the rear of the house but want to sort the left to right slope out, however the mud is so heavy and sticky.
Does anyone have advice for me? Shall i use a rotavator and rake when its dryer (say April) and what the cheapest natural compost I can get hold of to mix in with the soil and make it better for under turf?

Answer 1

There are 2 main parts to this - do you want to re-design the layout and also what you can do to improve your soil.



The layout question could be solved with having someone do it for you, if it's affordable, as it will be back breaking work - some of us love this though, so it's a fun challenge. I'd look at what you could do with some retaining walls, and largely aim to design around the layout as a feature. Some plants prefer hills etc.



For soil improvement, your best approach is to either add a drainage system - good if you are moving a lot of the soil and/or incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil. This helps make the soil more crumbly, less prone to baking into a concrete like structure in dry weather, as well as less sticky. I'd improve the drainage some what, with or without a drain system, and add progressively as much organic material as you can. This can be composted material or animal manure, preferably anything from a sustainable source, as peat is from peat bogs that have taken thousands of years to develop. Local authorities where I live sell composted material at fairly low prices. For under the lawn, you could also add some sharp sand, that will help with drainage - shady lawns, with poor drainage typically get moss problems, so this is best to plan a solution to prevent this. Lime is also able to flocculate clay soil, into larger particles - this does make the soil alkaline, and thus no good for acid loving plants - it's better overall to incorporate the organic matter, as I think you understand from your question.



I'd perhaps also let the soil drain a bit before embarking on a soil shifting exercise, as when it's drier it will be somewhat easier to work on.



Add more organic matter each year - the earthworms will take it down into the soil. Mulches around plants will decay, and can be renewed too. Choose plants that will flourish in your area, and soil type too, so that you're not fighting a losing battle. Start composting as soon as you can, so that you've got your own free source of material to add in future.



Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob

Answer 2

One of my most memorable experiences was watching the rural men of China dredge clay from the bottom of a river; the weight of that earth and the natural power in the peasant body. Have fun with your rake! I will bet that at the end of the frustration and futility of a weak european city man wrangling with clay that you will accept the slope and instead use your imagination on decorative landscaping. You have no idea what you are in for. Apart from renting a dredging machine I doubt you will accomplish much.



As to composting; the city may sell compost to local residents. This is mulch gathered from tree trimmings and leaf -rakings. It is put through a chipper and heaped up to decompose. However my experience with this level of compost is that it is good for doing land fill. If you are thinking of evening out your garden with a heap of landfill you have to take into account the drainage problem. You do not want a flooded basement because you have, in effect, planted your house at the bottom of a valley that is collecting the rainwater of the neighborhood.



As to living with your slope; consider the value of the sun exposure. Some gardeners would love to have a natural slope in which to either expose sun loving plants - such as tomatoes, or sheild the delicate.



As to absorbing the water the very best compost that is not too expensive is peat moss. Peat moss is the absorbant spongy soil that is produced in marshes. It will certainly sop up your sticky stuff. If you want to be more adventurous and resourceful head down to your friendly neighborhood swamp and harvest the dried out fluff of the cattail reeds. This fiberous resource is amazing for cleaning up environmental messes such as oil spills as it is water resistant. You can use that as a kind of cover if you are creative. In the event that you want to produce gardens for vegetables and flowers then you should invest in the well written easy to read book called "Square Foot Gardening". My favorite addition to garden soil was vermiculum, so named because it looks like little worms but is really an accordian shaped fragment of mica. This aerates the soil and fluffs it up and directs drainage. Vermiculum is natural but it is processed and accordingly quite expensive - and addictive.

Answer 3

Mulch is needed to maintain the soil moist. you are able to upload the (bark type mulch on the backside of the planting hollow and then returned on good to hold in moisture. we've clay too. that's impossible to grown something devoid of amending the soil. while you're including too lots fertilizer, you ought to be killing the plant. Compost is the suited element yet you dont choose fertilizer different than one or 2 cases a 12 months. The compost will act as a fertilizer. yet another factor. while you're overwatering, clay keeps moisture and it must be killing the plant life. Water moderately. sturdy success fellow clay soil individual.

Answer 4

Hi, yes use a rotarvator but when using it mix some sharp sand and hay or straw with it

the sand will help break up the soil and the hay or straw will mulch down (compost )and give the soil some life you could also put some potash (anything that has been burnt down to ash )this will put nitrates back